| ROGAN
JOSH
(KASHMIR)
Rogan means meat fat and josh literally
means heat, though figuratively it means intensity. Traditionally
fatty meat on the bone was used for making Rogan Josh and
it was slow-cooked in its own fat, with extra added for a intense
flavour. In these days of cholesterol-consciousness, however, we
avoid animal fat and use a minimum amount of oil. The dish gets
its heat and intensity from the lavish use of body heat- inducing
spices such aas large balck cardamoms and cloves.The hall mark of
the dish as cooked in Kashmir is the liberal use of the treu Kashmiri
red chilli, which has a mild flavour but gives a bright red colour.
The Muslims there use praan, a Kashmiri shallot, that has
a garlicky flavour,and maval, the petals of the cock'scomb
flower. The latter gives the curry an even brighter red colour and
is supposed
to have cooling properties. The Hindus of Kashmir do not use praan
or any onion or garlic but give body or flavour to the curry by
the addition of yoghurt. The spice distin guishing Kashmiri Rogan
Josh from those made in other parts of India is fennel powder.
I have combined the recipes of both the Hindu and Muslim communities
and replaced
exotic ingredients with those which are easily aavailable. The curry
is mildly spicy and has a ravishing flavour. It is traditionally
eaten with boiled rice but can also be eaten with rotis or a saffron
pulao.
| Serves
6 |
|
| |
2
large blaack cardamoms |
| |
4
green cardamoms |
| 750g
mutton pieces |
2
cinnamon leaves (tej patta) |
| 9oz
(250g) bones for adding flavour - optional |
1
blade of mace (javitri) |
| 4
cloves garlic, chopped |
11/2
teaspoon coriander powder |
| 3
teaspoons Kashmiri chilli powder |
1
teaspoon fennel powder |
| 1/2
cup whole milk yoghurt |
1
teaspoon ginger powder |
| 250g
small madras onions, chopped |
1/4
teaspoon turmeric powder |
| 1/4
cup ghee or oil salt to taste - |
1
level teaspoon |
| 4
cloves |
|
1 Boil the mutton and bones with the garlic
and 1/2 teaspoon salt in 6 cups water in a
cooking pot for 20 minutes. Remove from the heat. Remove
the meat and set aside. Skim off the scum and strain and reserve
the cooking liquor.
2 Make a paste of chilli powder by mixing with a little waater.
Whisk the yoghurt and set aside.
3 Fry the onions in the ghee or oil in a pot until
lightly browned (this will take about 8 minutes). Add cloves, cardamoms,
cinnamon leaves and the mace and fry for 1 minute. Then add the
coriander, fennel, ginger and turmeric powders, and the chilli paste
and 2 tablespoons water and stir continuously. After 2 minutes add
the meat.Saute for about 5 minutes. Lower the heat and add the yoghurt,
stir well and saute for a few minutes.
4 Add salt to taste, together with 4 cups water. Cook until
the meat tender. Before serving, remove the cinnamon or bay leaves,
the large cardamoms and mace if intact. |
